Atc belay. Feb 22, 2020 · The Black Diamond ATC XP is one of our favorite manual belay devices and provides an excellent value. ATC. ” (This was a joke on the part of Black Diamond, given that the ATC’s primary use is to belay or “control” a climber high in the air on a rope, or allow a climber to control their descent. Shop now for reliable, high-performance climbing gear and apparel trusted by professionals. Dec 10, 2016 · NewDoar Belay Device For 8-11mm V-grooved Belay Device single/double rope NewDoar Belay device as a friction brake, which can reduce the wear of the rope when it is braking. I don’t care what my belayer is using so long as they are going to catch me if I fall. 7-10. The original Black Diamond “ATC” shares its name with an acronym that more commonly stands for “Air Traffic Controller. The top of the ATC device will have the friction modes and the bottom will have the ATC loop facing down. What is the Best ATC Belaying Device in 2024? Here's a list of the Top 9 ATC devices for belaying based on our experiences and expertise. GriGri vs ATC Belay Device: What’s The Difference? What is Mar 15, 2020 · The ATC belay descender is suitable for 8 - 11mm single/double rope. Slide the loop into the top of the Black Diamond ATC Guide Belay Device (see on Amazon) along one side of the middle divide on the device. Belay Devices And Descenders Petzl offers a wide selection of descenders and innovative belay devices designed for all vertical activities. In recent years, Figure 8’s have largely disappeared in climbing areas, due to the popularity of the ATC (how to rappel with an ATC), as well as the publicity of a few fatal accidents (more information below). The thick rope-bearing surfaces of the ATC-XP mean that ropes wear less and last longer. Yes. Jan 15, 2018 · The new Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a lightweight assisted braking belay device for single-pitch climbs. Dec 22, 2022 · Keep reading to learn about the Grigri vs. My favorite belay device I've ever used was an old sticht plate. ATC Setup for a Rappel With the rappel rope anchored in at the top, grasp the rope and make a small loop. 7 mm to 11 mm. A belay device is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying. With great holding and stopping power and a versatile design that accepts a wide range of ropes, this classic belay device is ready for a variety of missions. ATC Belay Device for Rock Climbing and Rappelling 235 Price, product page$2088 List: $21. Black Diamond’s most tried and true belay device was named the ATC to facetiously draw the connection between a falling climber and an aircraft trying to land at the airport. According to BD, these grooves offer three times more stopping power than the smooth-sided Feb 21, 2020 · The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a “ geometry assisted ” belay device for ropes in the 8. With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. Dec 21, 2023 · Having dropped my original belay device on the Matterhorn, I was after a new one – and the ATC-XP by Black Diamond certainly delivers! Distinguishing itself with high-friction grooves, the ATC-XP offers an impressive grip and stopping power in its friction mode. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. However, three main types of devices exist: tubular belay devices, assisted braking belay devices, and the figure 8. Versatile design accepts ropes from 7. And the lightweight design and affordability make the ATC a popular pick among climbers of all levels. Tube devices are superior to plates for rappelling since they allow precise control of your descent speed. We use these ATC devices because they make belaying easier by creating friction. 7 to 11 mm High friction mode on ATC-XP offers 3 times Atc’s are probably preferred by the old guard. Direct belay – this is the recommended method by climbing schools today Redirected belay – this is the method used for many years and is still common today Indirect belay These 3 methods differ in how the belay devices are being set up and how the belaying is done. Here are our in-depth reviews. Others have their preferences for similar designs from other brands, but I am pretty confident more mountains have been climbed with the ATC guide than any other. 1 and 8. 7 to 11 mm Durable cable holds its shape and resists getting caught up between ropes Machined windows through device for weight savings High-friction mode offers 3 times greater hold and stopping power than May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. How to pass a belay certification? Nov 16, 2018 · NewDoar Belay Device For 8-11mm V-grooved Belay Device single/double rope NewDoar Belay device as a friction brake, which can reduce the wear of the rope when it is braking. Dec 16, 2022 · Instead, it’s figuring out which belay device is best amongst the myriad of belay devices on the market. Mar 8, 2013 · The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. I used to use a Figure 8 primarily for canyoneering, because I liked it better than an ATC in certain situations. Not much has changed since its original design in the Feb 12, 2024 · The Black Diamond ATC-Guide is a device we commend for being able to do it all. ) So, I started asking questions. The only downside is it is a little more "slippery" than true cam- auto-break devices. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. Crafted from durable aluminum, this device offers longevity and consistent performance, making it a staple in any climber's gear collection. The grigri/atc debate comes down the the argument that a component belayer doesn’t need a brake assist. How to Belay With an ATC Belay Device: Pull, Brake, Under, Slide! Belaying is fun, but dangerous. This Instructable is for reference purposes only, and is not meant to replace in- person training from a rock climbing professional. And that any climber would prefer a competent belayer rather than a fancy belay device. Often copied but never equaled, the Black Diamond ATC provides lightweight and durable belaying and rappelling performance anytime, anywhere. It works by managing the rope's friction, allowing the belayer to control the rope's payout and catch falls effectively. 10% lighter than its predecessor with improved feeding and pulling in guide mode, the versatile Black Diamond ATC-Guide belay device offers multiple friction modes for belaying and rappelling. 5 mm range. Feb 13, 2010 · The ATC is the second smallest and lightest belay device tested, the first being the Petzl Verso, which is more expensive. This article explains how to use guide mode for climbing + how to lower a climber in guide mode. I trained with ATC and the switch is smooth and intuitive. We really expected the newer devices with friction grooves to blow this old school model away but we were impressed with how the ATC pays out climbing rope as well, and maybe better, than many of the newer models. A more compact, lighter version of our versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC-Alpine Guide is built for smash and grab ascents in the mountains. Shop our ATC Guide, ATC XP & more belaying & rappelling gear. If we do our job correctly, by the end of this article, you’ll know which belay device is best for you. We have grouped belay devices into different categories that show how they have evolved over the years: Figure 8s, ATCs, Passive Assisted Braking Devices, and The BD ATC-Guide is a tube-style belay/rappel device with friction ridges. I own an ATC-XP, ATC-Guide, springless Sticht plate, GriGri, CT-Alpine Up, a chain link and various homemade belay devices. Nov 6, 2022 · What Does ATC Stand For? One of the climbing market’s most famous and trusted belay devices is the Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller or ATC. Discover Mammut's selection of belay devices for outdoor sports. Known for being versatile and lightweight, REVERSO is a belay device for single or multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering. 13 of the world's top devices, compared, and tested! Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. Aug 3, 2023 · It allows climbers to belay a lead climber, top rope, or rappel effectively. Is there any benefit to using a figure 8 as opposed to tubular belay devices or a locking assist belay device? Thanks Mar 10, 2025 · Belaying is a technique of managing slack in a climbing system to safeguard a climber and prevent the climber from taking a dangerous fall. Lightweight, single-rope version of ATC-XPDesigned for sport craggingDual friction Keep the climber close to your heart, set up your lead belay the right way. Dec 5, 2024 · The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a tube-style belay device with an extra clip-in loop for belaying a second directly off of an anchor. (Black Diamond’s ATC—or “Air Traffic Controller”—is their model of the classic tube-style belay device. This Tech Tip is about using the ATC-XP. With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the belay device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. In this respect it is very much like its predecessor, the BD ATC-XP, and innumerable other similar devices. The ATC-Guide offers smooth handling while you climb with its lightweight and easy-to-use construction. Nov 28, 2018 · Amazon. The ATC was initially a specific belay device developed by Black Diamond. What makes the ATC-Guide unique is the addition of two loops of aluminum. While the ATC belay device suits various climbing styles, it shines in traditional climbing scenarios where climbers need versatility and adaptability. The other day, I was top rope climbing indoors and there was so much tension while my partner and I were lowering each other that he flipped his ATC the other way ("teeth up") to make the lowering process smoother. The ATC is a friction-based belay and rappel device that uses bends in the rope and contact with the devices surface to increase friction, which then allows for much easier slowing down or stopping of the rope from moving through the device A belay device is a metal tube that you feed a climbing rope through, used with a screwgate carabiner, in order to belay a rock climber. Sep 19, 2017 · A superlight belay device designed for sport cragging and gym use, the Black Diamond ATC-Sport is a simplified, single-rope version of our ATC-XP. Feb 22, 2020 · Belaying is an often overlooked, but essential skill to safe climbing, we share how to belay when climbing safely for top roping and lead climbing. It costs very little and last a long time. An ATC belay device is a metal device designed to assist in belaying climbers. com : BLACK DIAMOND ATC-XP Belay Device for Rock Climbing and Rappelling, Black : Sports & OutdoorsAbout this item Utah based Black Diamond has been producing premium quality outdoor equipment since 1957. 5mm. This classic tube style has gone from THE STANDARD throughout the 90’s / early 2010’s to uncommon by the 2020’s. Keep reading to learn about belay devices and how to pick the right one based on your climbing experience and the style of climbing you enjoy. This classic design features a large surface area that dissipates heat when lowering or rappelling, and the smooth-handling geometry accommodates rope sizes from 7. Aug 26, 2021 · Here, I present a comparison review of Black Diamond’s ATC Belay/Rappel Device (ATC) and ATC-Guide/Rappel Device (Guide)—I believe that ATCs still have an important place in rock climbing. Nowadays, belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as ATC. Select See Mar 7, 2019 · An ATC or Air Traffic Controller is a type of belay and rappel device manufactured by Black Diamond Equipment. With the right belay device, a small, weak climber can easily arrest the fall of a much heavier partner. ATC guide is pretty much the gold standard belay device for mountaineering. Jan 24, 2022 · While using an ATC belay device, I was taught "teeth down" when I first got into climbing. This includes all tube-style devices (ATC, reverso, etc. Jun 16, 2018 · For what it's worth, I got to climb in the Gunks with some AMGA Rock Instructors and Rock Guides, and they now prefer the ATC Pilot as the belay device of choice to give to clients that they've just taught to belay, especially when they're going to be lead belaying said guides. It is a tubular device, which gives it more area and steeper angles for creating friction and stopping power than a Sticht plate belay device. All Black Diamond climbing gear equipment include a 2 Year Warranty. The ATC belay device from Black Diamond is one of the most popular rappel devices in the world. 95 FREE delivery Fri, Jun 27 on $35 of items shipped by Amazon Or fastest delivery Tomorrow, Jun 23 Add to cart Explore durable climbing belay & rappel devices from Black Diamond to gear up for your next descent. It allows you to belay your climbing partner, rappel, and use Reverso mode to belay one or two seconds. What Is An ATC? ATC stands for Air Traffic Controller. Apr 24, 2020 · AOKWIT ATC Descender 2. You will also learn how to belay using an ATC belay device, catch a fall, and lower your climber back to the ground. The Black Diamond ATC Belay Device The Black Diamond Air Traffic Controller, or ATC for short, is Black Diamond’s flagship belay device. But how do you rappel with an ATC? Tubular ATC belay device This is a metal tube, a few inches in diameter, that is divided into two openings and comes with a wire attachment loop. An ATC needs to be clipped into the harness with a locking carabiner, the rope then runs through the bottom of the device, around the carabiner, and then back out through the top Often copied but never equaled, the Black Diamond ATC belay device provides lightweight yet durable belaying and rappelling performance anytime, anywhere. It's not the absolute cheapest option but is the lowest priced one in our review. Jul 15, 2010 · When I belay I usually use a grigri but I also have an ATC. Is this safe? Just having trouble finding anything online about it. The specific design allows the rope to glide smoothly through the device and reduces wear. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, with excellent feeding and pulling in guide mode, the ATC-Guide is ready for any multi-pitching mission from wandering granite routes in the Bugaboos to bomber limestone in El Potrero. The Black Diamond ATC Belay/Rappel Device is a quintessential tool for climbers seeking a reliable and efficient means to control their descent and manage their ropes. ATC stands for Air Traffic Control. Additionally, a machined window within the device contributes to its lighter weight, resulting in the ATC-XP weighing just 64 grams. I like my GriGri for more casual climbing, but the ATC style devices are more versatile and lightweight. Exchanging gear, restacking the rope, eating, drinking, and whatever else you might need to handle at the belay stance can really burn away those precious daylight hours, so it’s crucial to be as efficient as possible. Jul 16, 2014 · Belay transitions can be the real time-suck of multi-pitch climbing. All Black Diamond belay devices include a 2 Year Warranty. ATC Guide by American company Black Diamond is practical and very popular belay device. Feb 25, 2025 · A highly versatile and durable belay and abseil device designed to provide climbers with enhanced braking power and control, the Black Diamond ATC-XP builds upon the design of the standard Black Diamond ATC, offering additional features that improve both safety and usability. Guide Mode is an auto-locking belay technique for climbing. Dec 15, 2021 · Belay Devices and Techniques for Belaying From Above In theory, any belay device can be used to belay from above. This well-rounded belay device doubles as a rappel device, and its capacity makes it our best bet for multi-pitch climbing. Caving, mountaineering, multi-pitch, cragging, canyoning, each activity has its device. Dec 21, 2015 · Amazon. It is a type of tubular aperture belay device. Double Slots construction, belay device offers effective braking to half, twin and single ropes, 8 - 11mm. I tend to agree. 7 to 11 mm Durable cable holds its shape and resists getting caught up between ropes Is an ATC better than a Grigri? We break down the differences between the types of belay devices and share our favorites for different types of climbing. Jul 27, 2025 · What is an ATC A Black Diamond ATC is a belay and rappel device made by the gear manufacturer, Black Diamond Equipment. However, many belay devices are designed with top belaying especially in mind and will do this job much better. A rundown of the most common belay devices, and the pros and cons of each. ) The The ATC-XP is the next evolution of Black Diamond’s ‘Air Traffic Controller’, tubular belay device. At just 73 grams, this featherweight belay/rappel device is optimized for ropes between 8. Jun 4, 2025 · What is a tube style belay device? Tube style belay devices are one of the most common styles for belay devices in rock climbing today. Design with 4mm rubber wire rope, the guide belay device is easy to store and easy to operate. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee The Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device offers the same great hold and stopping power as the original version, only it's now 30% lighter. May 28, 2024 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. 3 days ago · See our guide to the best climbing belay devices of 2025, including our top picks and details on belaying with two ropes, rope diameters, belaying a follower, and more. The history of belay devices really came into focus in the 1970s, almost Dec 6, 2016 · The lightweight Black Diamond ATC Pilot represents an advance in technology for the world of assisted braking devices. Jul 17, 2021 · Join StoneMan Climbing Co. 9 to 9mm. ), assisted braking devices, and even the old-school munter hitch. 7 to 10. Sep 21, 2023 · After months of testing, our avid rock climber and resident expert found the best climbing belay devices of 2023. ATC The ATC is virtually the most basic belay device you can find these days, if not the cheapest as well. Here’s a review from an REI expert. In a standard top rope setting, the belayer stands below the climber as they ascend, controlling Which belay device should I use? The available belay devices all range from inexpensive (around $15) to pricey ($150 and up) and offer different things in terms of ease of use, assistance with braking, and additional safety features. 1OZ, an ultra-light, compact and easy-to-use V-grooved belay device with teethed channel, ideal choice for you climbers to lighten rack. The oval-ized anchor-ho Aug 24, 2018 · Belay devices are experiencing a renaissance of sorts, with more innovative options on the market than ever. The result is a comprehensive comparison-tested review, and some Nov 28, 2018 · Our most versatile belay and rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. Nov 3, 2020 · We've brought you all the best belay device reviews out there, so just sit back & enjoy. When the rope is weighted the angle of the device changes, locking the rope down, though, as we mentioned above, you still need to keep your brake hand on the rope. The belayer is easily able to catch a falling climber when using the device because of the friction created as the rope is shaped into a tight s-bend. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. An extended central section keeps karabiners and ropes properly oriented and reduces kinking. Dec 21, 2015 · Utah based Black Diamond has been producing premium quality outdoor equipment since 1957. What’s a Belay Device? A belay device is climbing equipment that gives a belay to a climber. Here, we review and recommend the best assisted-braking belay devices for rock climbing. With the ATC-XP Belay Device from Black Diamond, a climber can control how much friction they want while belaying or rapping, which in turn means greater control with multiple rope diameters. Compatible with a Aug 22, 2016 · The ATC itself would appear in the 1990s and has since become far and away the most popular belay device. Perfect for single-pitch climbs. Experience enhanced security with the ATC-Pilot Belay Device. Nov 17, 2023 · The ATC is a line of tubular belay devices produced by Black Diamond. How to choose? Jan 3, 2024 · But what is the best belay device to use? There’s a whole lot of different belay devices out there, but today, let’s take a look at two of the most popular belay devices out there: the Petzl Gri-Gri and the ATC – their respective advantages, disadvantages and best applications. 5 millimeters in diameter yet works with ropes from 6. Dec 21, 2015 · About this item Utah based Black Diamond has been producing premium quality rock climbing equipment since 1957. Jan 4, 2024 · We break down every type of belay device and talk about where belaying started, and talk about which devices work best for your style of climbing. Jan 14, 2019 · Your ATC Guide or similar plaquette-style belay device is of course great for belay and rappel, but can also be rigged as an ascender. Whether you use belay device in belaying climbers or rappelling, teethed channel creates more friction in braking and allow Explore durable climbing belay & rappel devices from Black Diamond to gear up for your next descent. It has since become so popular and its design has been replicated by other brands. com : BLACK DIAMOND ATC Guide Rock Climbing Belay Device, Black : Sports & OutdoorsNo featured offers available We feature offers with an Add to Cart button when an offer meets our high standards for: Quality Price, Reliable delivery option, and Seller who offers good customer service “No featured offers available” means no offers currently meet all of these expectations. ATC-XP belay/rappel device (color may differ from image) Includes a locking carabiner (color may differ from image) Versatile design accepts ropes from 7. Shop for Belay and Rappel Devices at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. They are made out of aluminum. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. Intro to Bouldering Class (offered at bouldering facilities only) Are you taking a belay test soon and wondering how to pass your belay certification? Learning how to belay is an important skill for any climber. Learn how here. All class participants must be 13 or older. It's available in new colors, too. The ATC XP is designed in the classic tube shape but with a pair of toothed grooves on one side for greater friction. The RockLock has rounded edges to provide smooth feeding of the rope, especially when you’re using an ATC or tube-style belay device. . I like to think I'm skilled with all of them. With assisted braking technology similar to a Grigri, this device ensures smooth and secure control during belaying and rappelling. This class is required for anyone who has not belayed before or who cannot pass our belay test without assistance. The oval-ized anchor-ho Giga Jul is the answer. Use this article to help decide which belay device to buy! 3 Methods Of Belaying From Above There are 3 methods of belaying from the top. But before learning about each method, let’s Adding a higher level of security to your belay, the lightweight Black Diamond ATC Pilot belay device lends easy rope payout, which is less tiring for belayers and more secure for climbers. What is a climbing belay device? A climbing belay device is a tool used by climbers to control the rope holding a climber in case the climber falls and/or when the climber needs to be lowered. Multiple friction modes provide the optimal amount of stopping power when low. The ATC-XP is the next evolution of Black Diamond’s ‘Air Traffic Controller’, tubular belay device. This is a fundamental skill needed to become an independent outdoor climber and the ATC Dec 13, 2023 · But in many other ways it seemed safer than the standard ATC I learned to climb with. Many climbing gyms will ask to see your belay certification or do a test before you are allowed to belay. (And the little pics Black Diamond's most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. Two friction modes offer optimal stopping power while lowering your partner, and the versatile design accepts a wide range of rope sizes from 7. Aug 6, 2021 · Not sure which belay device to get? We tested the Petzl GriGri 2 and Black Diamond ATC side-by-side to help you know which is right for you. Belaying your follower (or followers) with an auto-blocking device set up directly on the anchor allows Oct 1, 2020 · As with most belay carabiners, it is HMS (or pear) shaped, which offers a wide gate opening to easily set up your belay device and rope. [1] It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. They vary in price, ease of use, safety features, and level of assistance with braking. It is also very versatile - it can be turned into an ATC and used as anchor belay device; auto-break on rappel; and double ropes. and learn how to lead belay using a tube-style belay device also known as an ATC. There are three main types of belay devices, the tubular ATC, the auto-locking belay device and the semi-assisted belay devices. Speaking of your brake hand, it's not right-hand dominant like most other assisted belay devices, so left-handed Mar 27, 2024 · Often copied but never equaled, the Black Diamond ATC provides lightweight and durable belaying and rappelling performance anytime, anywhere. Was the GriGri in the dog house because of its high cost? Did rappelling on a single strand give climbers the creeps? Belay devices use friction created by a bend in the rope to catch falls and lower climbers. The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP better handles the smaller ropes used for ice climbing and canyoneering. In this video Kerry Lee shows you how to correctly set up your belay using an ATC. Providing an added level of security to your belay, the ATC Pilot threads similarly to other tubular belay devices and accommodates ropes from 8. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. It belongs to a group of belay devices which are in the Czech Republic called the “buckets”. Jan 4, 2024 · Tubular belay devices are sometimes generically referred to as ATC’s, owing to Black Diamond’s eponymous A ir T raffic C ontrol device that became the de facto standard belay device in the early 90s. kibxnv jddx fcy yppk slfxdz vclulloxc wgu mcvj anf yfdm